Handlooms of Bankura
        Handlooms        
BALUCHARI & SILK ITEM

This district is renowned for production of its versatile production of Silk, Baluchari Saree. Other traditional products are Bed-sheet, Bed-Cover, Gamcha, Towel, Cotton Saree, Silk Saree,Silkshirting, Tassar Shirting & Tassar Scart etc.

Historical Importance :

Famous Baluchari sarees were manufactured at Baluchar of Murshidabad which has been introduced by the weavers of Bishnupur

Materials used            :

Silk

 

Usable items               :

Saree, scarf

Area of  production    :

Bishnupur, Sonamukhi, Panchmura

Background

              In the history of textile in Bengal, Baluchari came much after Maslin. Two hundred years ago Baluchari was used to be practised in a small village called Baluchar in Murshidabad district, from where it got the name Baluchari. In the eighteenth century, Murshidkuli Khan, Nawab of Bengal patronized its rich weaving tradition and Baluchari flourished from that time onwards. But this flourishing trend later declined, specially during British rule, due to political and financial reasons and it became a dying craft as most of the weavers were compelled to give up the profession.
            Later in the first half of twentieth century, Subho Thakur, a famous artist, felt the need of recultivating the rich tradition of Baluchari craft. Though Bishnupur was always famous for its silk, he invited Akshay Kumar Das, a master weaver of Bishnupur to his center to learn the technique of jacquard weaving. Sri Das then went back to Bishnupur and worked hard to weave Baluchari on their looms.
             Once Bishnupur was the capital of Malla dynasty and different kinds of crafts flourished during their period under the patronage of Malla kings. Temples made of terracotta bricks were one achievement of these rulers. A major influence of these temples can be seen in Baluchari sarees. Mythological stories taken from the walls of temples and woven on Baluchari sarees, is a common feature in Bishnupur.

Process:-

       The production process of Baluchari can be divided into several parts:-

  1. Cultivation of cocoons:- Since the discovery so many years ago that the fibre or filament composing the cocoon of the silkworm can be constructed into a beautiful and durable fabric, silkworms have been bred for the sole purpose of producing raw silk. 
  2. Processing of yarns:- To make the yarn soft, it is boiled in a solution of soda and soap and then dyed in acid colour, according to the requirement of the saree. The yarn is stretched from both the sides in opposite directions putting some force with both palms. This process is needed to make the yarn crisper.
  3. Motif making:- Making of the motifs for ‘pallavs’ and other part of Baluchari is in itself an intricate process. The design is drawn on a graph paper, it is coloured and punching is done using cards. After punching, these cards are sewed in order and fixed in the jacquard machine.
  4. Weaving:- After jacquard loom has been introduced, weaving of a Baluchari saree takes five to six days to get completed. Two weavers work on it on shifting basis.

     Baluchari thus prepared becomes the sign of aristocracy, the attire of status. Maintenance of quality of Baluchari saree is taken care of precisely. The quality is checked from the stage of dying of the yarn to the packaging of the saree.

COTTON LOOM (TANT SILPA)

Historical Importance :

It is an ancient craft of Bankura

Materials used            :

Cotton thread, dyes, & pigments

 

Usable items               :

Bed cover, Door & window screen, pilow cover, towel (gamchha)

Area of  production    :

Kenjakura, Bankura Town

     

Related Govt. Bodies

Govt. Bodies

Contact Person

Phone No.

District Collectorate

District Magistrate,Bankura

+91 3242 50304

Zilla  Parishad

Karmadhyaksha,Small & Cottage Industry Dept

+91 3242 50270

District Industries Centre

General Manager

 +91 3242 54965

District Rural Development Cell

Project Officer

 +91 3242 51089

Khadi & Village Industry Board

District Officer

+91 3242 51367

Statistics of Handloom Industry

Sl.No. Item Description
1 Total No. of Handlooms 14,473
2 Total No. of Persons engaged in weaving activities (Full & Part time) 36,183
3 a) Total No. of registered Pry. Handloom Weavers Co-op. Societies 132
b) Total No. of looms under registered H-Weavers Co-op. Societies 11,185
c) Total No. of weavers under registered Hl.Weavers Co-op. Societies
i) S.C. Weavers a) Men :- 156
b) Women :- 35
ii) S.T. Weavers a) Men :- 40
b) Women :- 18
iii) O.D.C. Weavers a) Men :- 9790
b) Women :- 1972
iv) M.C. Weavers Nil
v) General a) Men :- 1197
b) Women :- 105
Total :-  13,307

Particulars of handloom production in 2004-2005

Sl. No.

Name of the Block / Municipality

No. of Looms

Total handloom production (in Rs.)

Cost of production (in Rs.)

Wages paid      (in Rs.)

1

Bankura-I

762

6700000

3500000

2200000

2

Bankura-II

686

5430000

2800000

1800000

3

Chhatna

1112

8600000

4380000

2920000

4

Mehia

169

100000

52000

33000

5

Gangajalghati

427

4300000

2193000

1452000

6

Barjora

256

2000000

1020000

680000

7

Saltora

127

820000

410000

350000

8

Onda

749

7400000

3850000

2550000

9

Taldangra

395

12200000

6240000

4140000

10

Simlapal

507

4600000

3162000

2108000

11

Khatra I

404

3200000

1632000

1088000

12

Hirbandh

407

2300000

1173000

782000

13

Raipur I

251

800000

450000

330000

14

Sarenga

305

1400000

680000

400000

15

Indpur

1665

12300000

6290000

4449000

16

Ranibandh

177

400000

195000

135000

17

Bishnupur Block (Silk)

154

1400000

680000

400000

18

Joypur

575

2800000

1400000

520000

19

Katulpur

508

3600000

1835000

1225000

20

Indus

339

1560000

796000

530000

21

Patrasayer (Silk)

546

2030000

1036000

690000

22

Sonamukhi Block (Silk)

79

800000

408000

272000

23

Bankura Municipality

2126

7700000

3927000

2618000

24

Bishnupur Municipality

1220

16000000

8160000

5440000

25

Sonamukhi Municipality

527

13400000

9600000

5800000

  Total

14473

121840000

65869000

42912000

Source:- Handloom Development Officer, Bankura